Behind the Bench Blog

Beyond the Bezel


The Bezel Setting

The bezel setting was the earliest method of setting gemstones into jewelry.  In historic examples, jewelry was often made by leaving a hole or slot in the ring with a thin lip, which was bent over the stone once it was in place. 

In modern times, a sleek metal rim surrounds the perimeter of the center stone, and holds it in place.  Bezel settings use a type of elevated collar, which wraps the rim of the diamond or gemstone in a complete precious medal band.  In making a typical modern bezel setting the bezel is shaped into the size and shape of the gem or diamond and then soldered onto the band with the laser-welding machine. .  This type of setting is the most secure for any gemstone or diamond. 

There are many variations available with a bezel setting.  The first of many choices is deciding on the precious metal to be used for the setting. Emmett offers  14kt or 18kt yellow, rose or white gold as well as platinum.  Once the medal for the setting is chosen, the medal for the bezel collar is made.  Although there is no right or wrong choice when choosing the metal for the collar, there are certain gemstones that contrast better with certain precious metals.  For example, a blue sapphire looks much deeper in color when set in platinum.  Pictured below is a Green Tourmaline set in an 18kt yellow gold bezel on a platinum band. 

Mixed metal bezel featuring an 18kt gold collar with a platinum band.

Mixed metal bezel featuring an 18kt gold collar with a platinum band.

This setting is making a comeback and the possibilities are endless.  It is especially popular with individuals that have an active lifestyle.  The setting is ideal for protecting softer gemstones and its smooth surface won't snag on clothing.