Behind the Bench

Beyond the Bezel

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The Bezel Setting

The bezel setting was the earliest method of setting gemstones into jewelry.  In historic examples, jewelry was often made by leaving a hole or slot in the ring with a thin lip, which was bent over the stone once it was in place. 

In modern times, a sleek metal rim surrounds the perimeter of the center stone, and holds it in place.  Bezel settings use a type of elevated collar, which wraps the rim of the diamond or gemstone in a complete precious medal band.  In making a typical modern bezel setting the bezel is shaped into the size and shape of the gem or diamond and then soldered onto the band with the laser-welding machine. .  This type of setting is the most secure for any gemstone or diamond. 

There are many variations available with a bezel setting.  The first of many choices is deciding on the precious metal to be used for the setting. Emmett offers  14kt or 18kt yellow, rose or white gold as well as platinum.  Once the medal for the setting is chosen, the medal for the bezel collar is made.  Although there is no right or wrong choice when choosing the metal for the collar, there are certain gemstones that contrast better with certain precious metals.  For example, a blue sapphire looks much deeper in color when set in platinum.  Pictured below is a Green Tourmaline set in an 18kt yellow gold bezel on a platinum band. 

 Mixed metal bezel featuring an 18kt gold collar with a platinum band. 

Mixed metal bezel featuring an 18kt gold collar with a platinum band. 

This setting is making a comeback and the possibilities are endless.  It is especially popular with individuals that have an active lifestyle.  The setting is ideal for protecting softer gemstones and its smooth surface won't snag on clothing.  

Something Old, Something New; Created Just for You

Clients often ask me what they should do with old jewelry that they no longer wear.  They aren't sure if it is worth anything and yet they can't bear to discard it or leave it sit in a drawer any longer.  This jewelry is perfect for creating the jewelry you always dreamt of having.  

The first step in creating custom jewelry begins with the client’s vision of the final product.  During a consultation, Emmett will discuss with the client their favorite styles and how their jewelry can be incorporated into a design that will showcase their diamonds and gemstones in a setting that is custom designed for them. 

 The client brought in jewelry that they no longer wear and had been keeping in their jewelry box.  

The client brought in jewelry that they no longer wear and had been keeping in their jewelry box.  

After the initial consultation, Emmett will evaluate the diamonds and precious stones; verifying shapes, sizes and quality.   He will then create the design on the Using the information gathered thus far, Emmett then creates a computer rendering of the design and sends the file to the client.  After the client reviews the new creation, Emmett will discuss any request for changes and make them accordingly. 

 A computer rendering of the design is provided to the client for approval. 

A computer rendering of the design is provided to the client for approval. 

Once the changes of the rendering have been made and review, Emmett begins the milling process of the wax model.  This process will provide the client with a physical model of the design.  This enables the client to actively engage in the design process, ensuring that their vision of the product is the one they desire.   It is during this step of the process that the client grants Emmett final approval. 

With the client’s approval, it is time to start the final process of building the ring.  This process begins by casting the model and preparing the metal for the intricate work of setting the diamonds and precious gemstones.   The final craftsmanship process is accomplished in approximately four days and the client is called to let them know their piece is ready.  

The last step to the custom jewelry process is the one filled with the most anticipation.  As  Emmett watches the client anxiously see their dream become a reality, he is hopeful that the reaction will confirm that he has fulfilled the client's expectations.  The client’s satisfaction is most important aspect to Emmett and is the beginning of the continued relationship that he builds with his clientele.  Emmett personalizes each piece of jewelry with a custom Emmett Blevins Jewelry logo; committing to the client that he stands by the quality and craftsmanship of the piece.